What this pendulum regulation calculator does
A swinging pendulum keeps a mechanical clock on time, and its length sets the speed. A longer pendulum swings more slowly, so the clock loses time; a shorter one swings faster, so the clock gains time. The little knurled rating nut beneath (or above) the bob raises or lowers it, changing the effective length by a tiny amount with each turn. This tool converts the daily error you measured into the exact direction and number of turns to make — so you stop guessing and twisting blindly.
How to use it
- Set the clock to the correct time against a reliable reference (your phone or a radio-controlled clock).
- Wait and measure. Let it run at least 24 hours, then note how many minutes or seconds it is fast or slow.
- Pick "fast" or "slow" and enter the error and the period you measured it over.
- Choose your pendulum type (or switch to exact mode and enter length + thread pitch).
- Read the result: turn the rating nut the shown direction by the shown amount. Stop the pendulum, turn the nut, restart it, and re-check after another day.
The formula behind it
For a pendulum, the period is proportional to the square root of its length, so a small length change ΔL shifts the rate by half that fraction. Over one day (86,400 s) the daily error from a length change is:
error/day ≈ 86,400 × (ΔL ÷ 2L)
One full turn moves the bob by the thread pitch, so turns needed = (2 × L × dailyError) ÷ (86,400 × pitch). The "typical clock" presets bake in common length/pitch combinations; exact mode uses your own measurements for a precise answer.
Worked example
Say a clock gains 4 minutes (240 s) per day. With a ~994 mm pendulum and a 0.7 mm thread pitch, one turn is worth about 30 s/day, so you need roughly 240 ÷ 30 ≈ 8 turns — and because it's gaining, you must slow it down by lowering the bob. The calculator handles that direction logic for you.
Common mistakes
- Adjusting too soon. Give it a full 24 hours; short samples exaggerate the error.
- Turning the wrong way. On a few clocks the nut is above the bob, which reverses the up/down direction — check yours.
- Forgetting to reset the time. The nut changes rate, not the current reading; you still set the hands by hand.
- Confusing beat with rate. An uneven "tick-tock" (out of beat) stops a clock but is a separate fix from regulation.
Per-turn sensitivity at a glance
| Pendulum type | Approx. change per full turn |
|---|---|
| Tall-case / grandfather (~1 m) | ~15–25 sec/day |
| Typical mantel & wall clock | ~30 sec/day |
| Short / lyre pendulum | ~45–90 sec/day |
These are general guides — exact mode with your real thread pitch is always more accurate.
Frequently asked questions
- Which way speeds the clock up?
- Make the pendulum shorter by raising the bob. With a nut under the bob that usually means turning it clockwise (thumb to the right). Lowering the bob slows the clock down.
- How much does one full turn change things?
- It depends on length and thread pitch, but for a typical metre-class pendulum it is roughly 30 to 60 seconds per day per turn. That's why small, patient adjustments work best.
- How long should I wait between adjustments?
- At least 24 hours per check. Fine regulation can take several days to a couple of weeks to settle, especially as temperature and humidity vary.
- My bob is already at the top and it's still slow — now what?
- You've run out of nut travel. The pendulum or its suspension leader needs to be physically shortened, or the suspension spring inspected — a job for a clock repairer.
- Does temperature affect timekeeping?
- Yes. Heat expands the pendulum rod and makes it run slow; cold makes it run fast. Compensated pendulums reduce this, but ordinary clocks may need seasonal tweaks.